Old News

Dong-A Ilbo
New York Times Feburary 13, 1876-
A Glimpse of the Korea

In a fold of the hillside between two gentle ascents, halfway toward the summit of the ridge of Sodo, the westernmost island of the two, peered out from amid fields and hedgerows, the scattered roofs of a small hamlet. Elsewhere the population is gathered into four large villages or towns-two on the western and two on the eastern island. The chief town lies toward the North on the Western shore of the bay, where the island dips to a long promontory crowned at the point with such a headland as Misenum. Across the dip between the central ridge and this elevated headland lie the blue mountains of the distant main. Beyond the cape, and between it and the western shore, runs a narrow strait, shallow, and with sunken rocks which make the little sound between the islands almost land-locked.
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The town is compactly build; hip-roofs of poles and mat, with sloping ends, lie close together. In the distance they called to mind the likeness of a testudo of besieging shields. The town abuts upon the stony beach. Each house and its dependent buildings are surrounded by a rude stone wall. Above the coping shoot branches of green shrubs, and here and there stems of the universal millet. Between the house wasls run rudely-paved lands as steep and stony as at Brixham or Clovelly. A few boats were hauled upon the beach, and a coasting craft of some thirty tons rode at anchor hard by. The town itself contains close on two hundred and fifty houses, and possibly a thousand souls. On the other island, also on the beach, but where the water makes almost an inlet in the shore, are two other towns. Both seemed large-as large at least as the one just noticed on Sodo. In front of the southernmost lay many junks at anchor. From both-but not from a single house of either town on the other island-wreaths of blue smoke rose. The more northern climbs somewhat high up the hill, and yet higher throws out a scanty suburb. The fourt town was passed and soon hidden behind a jutting headland; it is perhaps the smallest of the four. In front of each stands a stately tree; beneath its shade, on a platform rudely faced with loose stones, the elders and the commons of the little communities assemble. At first, as we entered the bay, scarce a soul was stirring. A few men and boys were seen moving about in front of some of the houses, or perhaps along a lane between the hedgerows. But as the morning advanced, many peeped out from their doors, till before long a crowd was gathered before each little town to look at the slip moving slowly up the bay. The anchor was cast opposite the town first mentioned. Within a short time of anchoring a boat put off from the ship for the shore, to make some inquiries of the head man, or Governor of the island. The emissary was recieved at the water's edge and courteously conducted to the great tree, the shade cast by which was supplemented by that of a canvas awning spread for the purpose. The officer was received by the chief men of the place, each distinguished-besides the stature and bearing of a higher class-by an official head-dress. This head-gear is black, made of some light fibrous substance, as finely woven as horse-hair sieve, and in the shape much resembling that of the peasant women of South Wales, the heroincs of Fishguard. The cavity to receive the head is cup-shaped, and beneath the brim. The common robe of all is white, long, and flowing like the Japanese kimono, and girt in at the waist. Loose broad trowsers of the same are tied in below the knee; white socks or busskins, and pointed, turned-up shoes complete the costume. The hair is long, and is gathered up into a small knot upon the crown. The children wear it in a long plaited tail behind; perhaps a remnant of the Manchu tyranny which tried, and failed in the attempt to put upon the Koreans the same head-mark as that submitted to by the more pliable Chinese. In the little embassy from the ship there was no one who could speak the Korean tongue. Communication was held by the aid of a Chinese servant, who wrote the few questions asked in the characters of his language. Question and answer were written upon paper, and readily interpreted by both Korean and Chinese, though neither could speak one word of the other's tongue. The head-men would not allow the baser sort, of whom a small crowd had already collect, to approach too near. Those who did were waved back, and when signs and orders tailed, were beaten backward with bamboos. The village Senate-for such seemed the group of elders who surrounded the venerable head-man-were unarmed, and no member bore even a staff of office. The not important information asked for being courteously imparted, the boat returned on board. Soon as the bell struck eight the colors were hoisted in accordance with ancient naval custom, and the band played "God save the Queen!" The notes of the music floated across the bay, and the crowds of gazers at the different villages quickly increased. An hour afterward a boat again pulled in toward the beach, this time carrying a goodly load of visitors. On landing, as before, two grave inhabitants, adorned with the official head-dress, met the visitors and conducted them to the meeting place beneath the tree. The Senate was assembled to receive them. Again the general public was kept at a respectful distance, and by the same argument as before. The aged head-man was courteous and hospitable withal. An attendant brought forth some native liquor, which was poured into a broud-mouthed, shallow cup of metal, first tasted by the venerable host-such is the Korean mode-tand then handed to the visitors. The liquor, whitish in color and sour in taste, is posible akin to the koumis of the Tartar tribes. The visit of strangers was evidently not much liked. Still the elders showed a certain grave courtesy, and a somewhat pleasing and even well-bred manner. As the officers from the ship divide into small parties of three and four to explore the island, some slight show of opposition was made. This was overcome, or purposely let pass unnoticed; so two of the little Senate accompanied each party. The strangers being young, and eager for exercise after their confinement on board, pushed out quickly for the hills. Inspection of the town was firmly resisted, and with almost complete success; so roads had to be taken to the right and left. Hurrying after the eager visitors could be seen, from the deck of the ship, the two attending villagers in their high-crowned hats and flowing robes; now lagging halt-tired out behind, now trotting courageously to regain the party in front, now eagerly waving the fan which all carry, now fluttering it rapidly to coul themselves, for the sun was already high, and the thermometer, even afloat, showed 87 degrees in the shade. When signs had no effect, the visitors were hailed "chin-chin," the universal salutation on the china coast, believed by the English to be Chinese, and by the Chinese to be English, though in reality it belongs to neither speech. Probably, however, the use of the phrase now is a remnant of former intercourse with the Chinese. Some did actually succeed in traversing the village, and even in seeing the inside of a Korean house. Not a woman was visible; all had been carefull hidden away. The houses are built of wood, with sliding doors and windows, like those of the Japanese. In the front, about the center, is a recess or open-sided chamber, for reposing in during the summer heats. At one end is a low balcony or veranda, formed by the protruding eaves. A light railing runs round it and a cool resting-place is thus made. The house floor is a raised platform, as in Japan, a small portion of which is cut away just within the door, to form a cavity in which on entering the shoes or sandals are deposited. The only domestic animals seen were pigs-probably of the Chinese breed-and dogs. In the fields, singly and in some places in twos and threes, were numerous rounded cones, with a sharp-pointed thatch upon the roof, which look like nuts, but were found to be small granaries for the milet when harvested. At the norther end of the chief village these stood so thick as to bear the semblance of an Indian town.